Style

Seven ways to tie a silk square

At the neck, in your hair, at the wrist or on a bag handle: one square, seven gestures, and as many ways to change an outfit without adding anything else.

5 minute read

One silk square worn eight ways: at the neck, as a pussy bow, in the hair, at the wrist, on a bag handle, over the shoulders.

A silk square has no right way up. That is what makes it the freest accessory in a wardrobe: it folds into a triangle, a band or a ribbon, and each fold opens another way to wear it. The same square can go with a white shirt on Monday, hold a bun on Wednesday and dress up a bag handle at the weekend.

Here are the seven gestures we love, from the simplest to the most unexpected. None needs any particular skill: a few tries in front of a mirror are enough, and silk forgives hesitation — a knot comes undone and is tied again without leaving a trace.

Three folds to start with

Almost every knot starts from one of these three folds. The band, first: lay the square flat, bring two opposite corners to the centre, then keep folding over until it is the width you want — three fingers for the neck, two for the hair or the wrist. The triangle, next: fold the square in half along its diagonal; it is the base of the turban and of fuller knots. The ribbon, finally: a band you keep folding until it is just a few centimetres wide, for the wrist or a bag handle.

  1. Celestial-print silk square, tied simply at the neck over a cream jacket.

    The simple neck knot

    Fold into a band, lay it on the back of your neck and cross the two ends in front. Tie a loose knot off to one side and let the ends fall. It is the quickest gesture, and the one that goes with everything: an open shirt, a crew-neck jumper, a coat. For a crisper look, place the knot well to the side; for a softer one, leave it almost in the centre.

  2. Burgundy feather-print silk square, tied as a pussy bow on a shirt.

    The pussy bow

    A wide band, tied in front like a shoelace: make a loop with one end, wrap the other around it, then pull it through as a second loop. Adjust so both loops are the same size and let the ends fall over the chest. On a shirt collar or a fitted jacket, it takes the place of a piece of jewellery and gives workwear a more personal note.

  3. Water-lily silk square folded into a wide band over the head and tied at the nape.

    The scarf tied in the hair

    A wide band, laid over the head like an Alice band and tied under the hair at the nape. The wider the band, the more of the design shows: it frames the face as a headdress would. The ends stay hidden or show at the side, depending on your mood. On loose hair, it clears the forehead; on a bun, it underlines its line. It is also the most elegant answer on days when there has been no time to do your hair.

  4. Ponytail tied with a black, white and gold silk square with long ends.

    Tied around a ponytail

    Fasten your hair with a thin elastic, then tie the band over it in a double knot. Leave the ends long: they move with your hair and extend the style. Worn high, the ponytail feels sporty; low, at the nape, it becomes more composed. We cover this gesture and a few others in our article on wearing a scarf in your hair.

  5. Burgundy feather-print silk square, wrapped and knotted at the wrist.

    At the wrist

    A very thin band, wrapped twice around the wrist, knotted, with the ends tucked under the turns. The square then works as a cuff. Worn alone, it dresses a bare arm in summer; worn next to a watch or a gold-tone bracelet, it builds a stacked wrist that is very much in fashion and easy to get right.

  6. Botanical silk square tied to the handle of a tan leather bag.

    On a bag handle

    Tie one corner at the base of the handle, wrap the square around it in a tight spiral, then tie the other corner on the far side. For a simpler effect, just knot the square as a band around one attachment and let it float. The same bag changes season, and you change accessory without changing bag.

  7. Water-lily silk square draped over the shoulders and knotted in front.

    Draped over the shoulders

    Fold the square into a triangle, lay it over the shoulders with the point at the back, then bring both ends to the front and knot them loosely, or simply let them fall. The square is then worn like a small stole: over an evening dress, a fine jumper or a coat, it brings colour close to the face without tightening anything. Laid over one shoulder and caught under the arm, it becomes freer still.

A square has no right way up: that is what makes it the freest accessory in a wardrobe.

Choosing the knot for the outfit

One simple rule almost always guides the choice: the plainer the outfit, the more room the square can take. On a white shirt or a black jumper, a pussy bow or a full knot becomes the centre of the outfit. On an outfit that is already printed or colourful, a discreet gesture works better — at the wrist, on the bag, in the hair — picking up a colour without adding one.

One precaution, whatever the knot: untie the square in the evening rather than leaving it tight. A crease held all night ends up settling into the silk. Untied and laid flat or over a chair back, it gets its suppleness back from one day to the next.

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